I've photographed Piz Bernina and its magnificent Biancograt ridge so many times. But now it's time for us to meet again. Alongside my guide, Johann Filliez, I'm heading for Graubünden, in the Swiss Alps. Together, we're about to embark on a grandiose journey to the Bernina summits . Together, we prepare to climb the Piz Bernina via the Biancograt before descending to Diavolezza.
Ascent of Piz Bernina via the Biancograt : From Pontresina to the Tschierva hut
July 2024. The stormy skies keep the summits the Valais away from people. So Johann and I decide to head for the eastern Alps and the canton of Graubünden. One of our most daring crossings awaits us there. With our gear on our backs, we board the train at 5am, reaching Pontresina by 1pm. On arrival, our legs, eager to stretch, are called to order by our hungry stomachs. So we stop off at a pizzeria by the side of the road to gather our strength before heading back to Val Roseg.
Along the Ova da Roseg, we advance under the gaze of the first Bernina mountains, from Piz Chalchagn to Piz Tschierva. The valley leads us to the Tschierva hut at 2583 m altitude, at the foot of the Vadret da Tschierva. Opposite us, the glacier is but a shadow of its former self. All that remains of this once gigantic river of ice are sombre remnants. A landslide recently occurred on Piz Scerscen, covering with rock the shreds of ice already weakened by global warming. A sad landscape. A desolation.
At the Tschierva hut, we settle the final details of our trip. It will take two days, the first to climb Piz Bernina and the second to reach Piz Palü. During dinner, however, we learn that the Marco e Rosa hut is fully booked for the following day. We won't be able to spend the night there! We had two options: to return to the valley via the Vadret da Morteratsch, renowned for its fearsome crevasses, or to climb 700 m back down to the Marinelli hut. There's nothing to look forward to. But then a crazy idea popped into my head: why not complete our Bernina traverse in a single day? My determination and enthusiasm prompted Johann to accept the challenge. To be in shape for the next day, we went to bed. We have a very long day ahead of us!
Bernina traverse: From Vadret da Tschierva to Fuorcla Prievlusa
We get up at 1:45 a.m., an hour before the other climbers. We have breakfast with a couple who are also planning to do the Bernina traverse that day. So we won't be alone: that's good news! I enjoy a bircher muesli and two slices of buttered toast before getting ready for the start.
At 2.30 a.m., we set off into the dark night towards Fuorcla Prievlusa. At the foot of the Tschierva glacier, we rope up and put on our crampons. There's so little light that we sometimes struggle to find our way by headlamp alone. But Johann follows his guiding instincts and we make good progress in the end. It snowed all night and it's still snowing. But I'm hopeful that the sky will brighten up, because the further I go, the more I can see the stars dispersing the mist.
As we reached the foot of the pass, we expected to find ladders. But, at the start of the season, the snow has completely covered the rock, opening up a royal road to Fuorcla Prievlusa. Ahead of us, the mountaineering couple who are accompanying us on this ascent make the trail. And when we reach the pass, we're delighted to see them again. Together, we watch the dawn break. The mountain awakens in magical hues. We enjoy this precious moment under the gaze of Piz Prievlus. Then we have to leave. This is just the beginning of a long adventure!
Ascent of Piz Bernina via Biancograt : From Fuorcla Prievlusa to Pizzo Bianco
From Fuorcla Prievlusa, we follow the rocky path to Biancograt. The diorite is frosted beneath our feet. And all around us, the mountain is bathed in golden light. So I stop to photograph these Alps whitened by the summer winds, which I love more than anything. The higher we climb, the more the Biancograt and Pizzo Bianco reveal their lines. My dream is only a few steps away and I can't believe it. I'm so happy to be up there!
Then it's time to set foot on the Biancograt . This mythical ridge to which I have dedicated my art so many times! I take my first steps on it and my heart beats so fast. But the sky soon brings me back to reality. On the ridge, an icy wind hits us full force. We cover up more and move on. Above all, don't stop, keep up the pace whatever the cost, just think about walking, one step at a time. Beyond light and shadow, beyond sensation, we have only one goal: to climb the Biancograt to the summit the Pizzo Bianco.
When we reach the end of the crossing, we manage to shelter from the wind for a few minutes. To catch our breath and warm up a little. Then we realize how far we've come and how lucky we are. From up here, we can see the summit Piz Bernina and the traverse that awaits us. The mountain seems so close, yet so impassable. Then the wind calls us to order: we must continue along the Bernina ridges.
Crossing the Bernina summits : From Pizzo Bianco to Piz Bernina
On the ridge that leads from Pizzo Bianco to Piz Bernina, abseiling follows climbing, and I thank God for Johann's insurance as the rock is so snow-covered. On these last few meters, the mountain is so pure and wild that I feel as if the winds have taken me to the Himalayas. I never thought I'd experience such a beautiful moment! Leaving my mark in the very place I've immortalized countless times. As if I were entering the heart of my photographs. As if I were becoming an actor in my own creations. As if I were at one with one of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps.
It's 9 a.m. when Johann and I reach the summit the Piz Bernina. At 4048 m, the wind is blowing hard. We take shelter from the cold and take a break. I take out of my pocket four slices of cheese I'd had for breakfast. I savor this moment of absolute pleasure. Cheese melting in my mouth like a sinful indulgence at the gates of heaven. Up there, life becomes raw and primitive again, and we revel in simple pleasures. We enjoy an incredible view of the highest summits in the Alps, and in front of us, Piz Zupo and Piz Argient seem to greet our expedition.
Crossing the Bernina mountains: From the Marco e Rosa hut to Piz Palü
We then descend to La Spedla. On the rocky ridge, my knees are killing me. We've now been in the high mountains for over 7 hours, and fatigue is beginning to set in. Around 10:30 we reach the Marco e Rosa hut. I'm exhausted. A terrible headache suddenly dissipates my enthusiasm. There are still so many kilometers to go to reach Piz Palü and Diavolezza! I don't have the courage to go on. At this point, I'm tempted to shorten our journey by descending via the Morteratsch glacier. But Johann picks me up and invigorates me. So we devour our pesto pasta with appetite. There's nothing better in the mountains! With our stomachs full and our spirits lifted, we're back in the mood to complete our traverse.
From the Marco e Rosa hut, we reach the Bellavista terraces. Below the Bellavista ridge, we progress at a steady pace, always battling against an icy wind. From crevasse to serac, we reach the Fuorcla Bellavista. At the pass, the storm rages on. The gusts are so violent that they threaten to knock us off our feet. We do our best to resist their onslaught. And as soon as we cross the pass, the gusts become less intense.
On the Altipiano di Fellaria glacier, we plunge into deep snow. Then we climb the broad flank of Piz Palü, protecting ourselves as best we can from the biting winds. Above us, the snow swirls and the sky whistles. The elements get the better of us, isolating us from the world. I have the strange sensation of walking on the moon or crossing a white desert.
Ascent of the Bernina range: Crossing Piz Palü
When we reach the summit Piz Palü, at 3899 m altitude, we breathe a sigh of relief. But our relief is short-lived! In front of us, the ridge leading to the second peak of Piz Palü seems impregnable. A wild, vertiginous ridge just carved out by the furious winds. An untracked route with an unstable snow cover. But we have to face it. There's no turning back at this stage.
One step at a time, I make my way up this vertiginous ridge with fear in my stomach. There's no room for error. All around me, danger lurks. And the winds leave me no respite. Nature is putting me to a severe test. I hesitate, suffocate and struggle to move forward. Johann, sensing my difficulties, decides to go ahead of me to make the trail. I feel lighter, I must admit! And when our crampons finally hit the second summit of Piz Palü, we can breathe easy. The hardest part is behind us!
Crossing the Bernina massif: Piz Palü to Diavolezza
We descend to Fuorcla Pers-Palü on exceptional snow. The Bernina chain seems to be rolling out its white carpet as if to greet us one last time. The slope is steep all the way to the pass, but a morning track allows us to make rapid progress. Then we have to cross the Vadret Pers and its many crevasses to reach Diavolezza. On the glacier, we stir up snow again and again, as it is so abundant. At around 5 p.m., we finally reach our destination. We've made it! What a relief, and what happiness too!
From the heights of Diavolezza, we look back over our entire journey. Over 14 hours of walking and climbing on the Bernina ridges, 2439 meters of ascent and 18.74 km of running. An incredible expedition through snow and icy rock. We decide to spend the night at the Berghaus Diavolezza hut. The day had been so intense that, with full bellies, we fell asleep very early, lulled by emotions and memories. The next morning, Johann and I take the first cable car back to the Bernina valley to catch the train back to Pontresina.
I now look at Piz Bernina and Biancograt with new eyes. A deep, carnal bond now unites me with these mountains of Graubünden. And I hope to nourish my art with the vivid memories of this climb.
