July 2023. I take onEiger. The bernese alps ogre peaks at 3967 meters above sea level at Grindelwald. The mountain owes its ominous reputation to the many climbers who have lost their lives attempting to scale its merciless north face. I have no pretension today of tackling this gigantic cliff. But it is possible to follow another, more accessible and welcoming route. ClimbingEiger via the Mittellegi ridge is a dream I've had for a long time. For the role the mountain plays in the history of mountaineering. And for its charismatic stature, dominating the Swiss Alps alongside the Mönch and Jungfrau. Just saying their names makes me want to get up there and meet these giants.
From Grindelwald to Eismeer | Journey to summit des bernese alps
It all begins under a radiant sun in the Grindelwald valley. My guide, Johann Filliez, and I board theEiger Express. The cable car takes us from the Grindelwald station to the Eigergletscher in just a few minutes. From the shelter of our cabin, we face the infamous 1,800-metre-high north face ofEiger. I can't help imagining what it must have felt like for the climbers who tried to scale it. A shiver runs through my body as I realize that we've already reached glacier level. Now almost gone, we can only contemplate its relics. How fabulous the Alps must have been in the golden age of their glaciers!
We leave our cabin and take the train to the Jungfraujoch. At 3454 meters above sea level, this is Europe's highest railway station. It offers visitors an unforgettable high-mountain journey. From the nearby Sphinx Observatory, there is an exceptional panoramic view of bernese alps. But for the moment, our objective is elsewhere. The train winds its way throughEiger before dropping us off at Eismeer station, on the eastern side of the mountain. The view before us is breathtaking. The magnificent Ischmeer glacier stretches out at our feet. In just a few minutes of breathtaking travel, we are transported from the verdant pastures of Grindelwald to the sparkling whiteness of the high summits.
Crossing the Ischmeer | At the gateway to EuropeEiger
We then enter a tunnel built to evacuate the rock excavated when the railroad was being built. It's a curious experience to explore the bowels of a legendary mountain in this way. At the end of this rocky corridor, the view of the sea of ice is breathtaking, like a master painting highlighting the beauty of the Alps. This is when our ascent becomes complicated. Before the Obers Ischmeer receded, snow greeted us as we emerged from the tunnel. But now that it has melted, only rock awaits us. And we have to abseil down to reach the first ice. Once we're on the glacier, we can see our destination: the Mittellegi hut awaits us 200 metres up.
However, it's impossible to contemplate the scenery any longer, as the wall ofEiger is unstable. Rockfalls are common here, and a major rockfall recently occurred. These collapses are exacerbated by rising temperatures in the high mountains. Gradually melting glaciers and permafrost are threatening the stability ofEiger and the cohesion of its rocks. Faced with this danger, we move away from the rock face to follow the glacier. Then our trajectory forced us to climb. I was expecting to have to follow fairly easy paths. But the lack of ice at this altitude forces us to climb theEiger wall. The climb seems difficult to me, probably because I hadn't prepared for it. But it's a good start for the rest of the climb! At last we reach the mountain switchbacks, the narrow flats that in places soften the steep cliffs of summit. As we climb, the panorama opens up to Obers Ischmeer. With its abstract, sculptural aesthetic, nature reveals the authenticity of its landscapes, blending its white and grey scales with the intense blue of the sky.
The Mittellegi hut | An exceptional panorama of the Alps
After 1 h 20 of ascent, we finally arrive at the gates of the Mittellegihütte. A small hut with around thirty places, clinging to the rock at an altitude of 3355 metres. Only 1,000 climbers are lucky enough each summer to climbEiger via the Mittellegi ridge. The view from the terrace is exceptional. Certainly one of the finest panoramas in the Swiss Alps. The Fiescherhörner, Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Mönch rise up in front of us. We can also see the beginnings of the Mittellegi ridge and the first ropes attached to the mountain. But the mist plays with the rest of the traverse, revealing summit for a moment before enveloping it again. The clouds shape evanescent landscapes, leaving my imagination free to guess at their grandeur. Before dinner, I take a few photographs of the bleached walls, like a stream of textures frozen in ice. Then I join Johann for a delicious meal.
In the last hours of the day, as is often the case in summer, the sky finally clears, leaving the mountain to breathe until the following day. So I head out again to see the Mittellegi ridge in its entirety. The summit ofEiger seems a long way off, but I remain confident. I give free rein to my thoughts when, all of a sudden, my heart leaps. In a final burst, the clouds hitEiger as the waves crash against the rocks. Nature offers us a prodigious sunset. As if the elements were chanting in unison a hymn to the beauty of the heavens. At the crossroads,Eiger, a royal pyramid, seems to separate azure from twilight, the sweetness of life from the strength of victory. A firework display of colors, tinting my gaze from blue to orange. All the way to the final bouquet where, in a final burst, the impetuous, flamboyant mist caps the mountain before leaving its summit free.
I realize how lucky I am to be standing on the summit of this mythical wall tonight. On my right, I can see the pastures of Grindelwald, while on my left, the high mountains unfold their immense glaciers and dizzying peaks. I have the celestial impression of being at the confluence of two worlds. Between the music of the valleys and the silence of the heights. Lulled by the abundance of life and seized by the serenity of a world inaccessible to man. Where nature accepts him only for a few hours, to reveal its truth and nourish him with its grandeur. How beautiful the world looks from above! How many riches surround us without us even noticing! I've never seen such an overwhelming contrast anywhere else. Turning in an instant from color to black and white, from summer heat to intense cold, from fiery flesh to crystalline soul. But it's already getting late, so I head back to bed, my head full of stars and my heart still vibrating.
Ascent ofEiger via the Mittellegi ridge | From the hut to the Grosser Turm
4 a.m. I wake up feeling good after a good night's sleep. Although, I admit, I'm more of an evening person. Getting up early is an ordeal, but you have to accept it. It's part of the conditions dictated by the mountain, a necessary evil to realize my dreams of climbing. After a quick breakfast, we leave the hut at 4.30am. Equipped with headlamp and climbing gear, we set off across the Mittellegi ridge in the dark. Last night, the hut was packed, and ten of us set off at the same time this morning. So we have to move quickly and keep up the pace so as not to disturb the following rope parties. By the time dawn breaks, we've covered quite a distance. The refuge now looks very small. Seeing it like this makes me think back to the good times spent with Johann in the warmth of this one-night shelter. Behind us, the sun spreads its fabulous colors, outlining the contours of the Wetterhorn on the horizon. One day, I'm sure, I'll climb this other emblematic summit from Grindelwald, but for now, I'm staying focused.
The sun-drenched ridge is pleasant to walk on. The wall is quite stable and I'm surprised to discover the geological diversity ofEiger, composed of several types of rock. With each step, I become more anchored in the present, happy to be there, in contact with this colossus that I so love to photograph. How could I have imagined, just ten years ago, that I would one day be able to make such an ascent? Perched between earth and sky, I'm proud to look back on the road I've travelled. To see that, by dint of perseverance, my mind has grown stronger. That by surpassing myself, my physical condition has improved. Because nothing is impossible for those who really want it. For six months now, I've been training, watching my diet and preparing myself so that this summer, I'll be able to climbEiger and many other summits climbs.
Our steps then lead us to the Grosser Turm, at 3688 metres above sea level, an astonishing promontory of rock jutting out from the middle of the ridge. After crossing it, we catch a glimpse ofEiger's summit . From its frightening verticality, it seems inaccessible. This impressive peak points skywards like a challenge to the world. To the passage of time and the hustle and bustle of mankind. To the force of the elements and the reason for everything. Its magnificent rock contrasts with the deep blue of the sky. As we approach it, the mountain reveals a new face. With my gaze captivated by such power, I rediscoverEiger, its soul and its pure truth. And, drawing the necessary energy from within myself, I too rise to reach its summit.
At the top of bernese alps | From the Mittellegi ridge to summit de l'Eiger
Determined to see this race through to the end, we use the many fixed ropes in place up to summit. This moment reminds me of climbing the Matterhorn. Just a few meters from the finish, at the fixed rope stop, snow awaits us and we have to put on our crampons to avoid slipping. On the snow-covered ridge, our progress is faster and safer. We remain vigilant, of course, as always in the high mountains, but we feel lighter. And my thoughts fly away, carried by the beauty of the landscape and the unique emotion of this adventure. We take time to photograph the north face ofEiger, the ultimate symbol of the devouring mountain.
A few more steps and we reach summit. What a delight! We climbedEiger via the Mittellegi ridge in just 2 hours 30 minutes. But Johann warns me: the difficulty here is not getting to the top, as the route is equipped with fixed ropes and belay points. The real difficulty lies in the descent. The hardest part is yet to come. I take advantage of this moment of calm facing the Mönch and Jungfrau to drink a little water and eat an energy bar. Below us, the view of Grindelwald and the valley is extraordinary. All around us, the texture of the rock mixed with the snow is as beautiful as ever. And we can see the majestic Mont Blanc in the distance.
But already, the descent towards the Mönch is taking shape. The ridge is so vertical that I can't even follow it with my eyes. Doubt takes hold of me. But Johann reminds me that in the high mountains, there's no point anticipating the hours ahead. You just have to keep moving forward with the utmost concentration. Take it one step at a time. Preserve your energy without being overwhelmed by the difficulties. Because everything comes in its own time. Rest follows the intensity of effort, like calm following a storm. Like an ode to life, the mountains teach us that every moment is precious and deserves to be lived to the full. It also helps us to know and listen to ourselves better, so that we can reach our goal. And today, it's a big one!
From summit Eiger to Mönchhütte | Last stage of the traverse
Now it's time to tackle the descent ofEiger. The rock is crumbling, but fortunately a few abseiling points help to keep us secure. The snow in places forces us to wear our crampons, which puts a strain on our ankles and knees. When we reach the north col, we stop for a moment to admire the ridge we've just climbed. This monumental mountain to which we have offered a part of ourselves. Then we have to climb back up to reach the southern pass ofEiger. A real race in itself. There are many rocks to climb. The undulating ridge seems to sail along the edge of the sky, taking its time to lead us to the foot of the Mönch east face. It's not until we reach the south col that we can breathe again. The difficulties are now behind us. Relieved and happy, I stop to feed a passing chocard. All that's left now is to skirt around the Mönch to reach the Mönchhütte.
After a 6-hour climb, we can finally enjoy a succulent cheese crust. The wonderful smell of warm bread mixed with wine and cheese, the dish melting in your mouth and crunching under your teeth, the acidity of the pickles and the sweetness of the egg. Having realized my dream of ascension, I'm now in paradise! The icing on the cake is that the refuge is exhibiting one of my works. So I strike a pose, proud of my achievements and laughing about our adventures. With a full stomach and a satisfied soul, we leave the hut and head for the Jungfraujoch. Before getting back on the train, I discover the splendor of the Aletsch glacier. I understand why so many people come to admire this exceptional site. Then it's time to head back down into the valley.
Tonight, I return to my family having fulfilled my crazy dream of climbingEiger. And now that I've crossed its Mittellegi ridge, I wonder, as I look at it through the glass of the cable car, if I'll ever tackle its north face. After all, who's stopping me? Life is a succession of surprising adventures that help us evolve and grow. Don't rule anything out, keep an open mind. And who knows, maybe one day I'll return toEiger from its north face!
