May 10, 2024. Second stage of an exceptional adventure to meet the highest summits of bernese alps. Yesterday, I climbed the Grosses and Hinteres-Fiescherhorn with my guide, Johann Filliez. Today, we'll be conquering the heights of the Finsteraarhorn on skis. Dominating the surrounding mountains, it rises to an altitude of 4274 metres, on the border between the Valais Alps and the canton of Bern. I've photographed this gigantic pyramid so many times. So many times its beauty has pierced my heart. What a joy it is, then, to be able to slide down its sides, climb its crests and reach its summit! I'm sure this day will stay with me for a long time.
Expedition to summit des bernese alps : Escale at Finsteraarhornhütte
I sleep soundly, lulled to sleep by the appreciable comfort of the Finsteraarhornhütte. The recently renovated hut offers its visitors individual bunk beds for a serene, restorative night's sleep. Dawn breaks and I open one eye. I stretch and savor every minute. Numb from the previous day's fatigue, I doze and drift off. All around me, the cabin is in turmoil. But as long as my alarm doesn't go off, I revel in these misty moments when night dissipates to make way for day. I'm sailing in this divine in-between time when suddenly Johann calls out to me. All hell breaks loose: there's a stampede! The hut is abuzz with climbers getting ready. I have to get up if we're to leave the hut on time.
Throwing a bucket of cold water over my dreams, I leap to my feet. I jump into my clothes, check the contents of my bag and rush downstairs for breakfast. A slice of bread with butter and a bircher, a Swiss specialty where cereals mingle with fruit to give explorers like us all the energy we need to face the high summits. I realize that my appetite is better than the day before: my body is gradually acclimatizing to the altitude.
In the midst of my reflections, I see Johann circling me like a caged lion. He's in a hurry to climb the Finsteraarhorn. The desire to leave the refuge to cross its glaciers, tread its snow and feel its tenacious rock beneath his feet. So I equip myself and the odyssey begins. As I leave the hut, I'm struck by the splendor of the panorama. The emerging light, absolutely soft, reveals the depth of the landscape and the soul of the mountains. In a matter of seconds, I'm photographing this magical view. Then we have to leave.
Ski ascent of the Finsteraarhorn: from hut to Hugisattel Pass
Johann has a pleasant surprise in store for me. Whereas we were supposed to cross the slope from the Finsteraarhornhütte to 3600 on skis, we're walking with crampons on our feet and skis on our backs. Relieved to be able to get my legs under me before having to practice ski touring, I move forward with a light heart. As I warm up, my body, stiffened by the previous day's exertions, accepts a new challenge. The slope is steep, but I'm determined to complete this celestial race. As we walk, the sun beams down on the Grosses-Wannenhorn and the Fiescher-Gabelhorn.
At around 3300 metres, at the foot of the glacier, the slope becomes gentler and we put on our skis. With a weight off our shoulders, we climb to 3616 on firm snow. If its density remains the same, I'd like to think it'll be fun to ski down. Reassured by this prospect, I continue to follow Johann, taking care to maintain a steady pace.
Arriving at the rocky bar that was to mark the end of our ski ascent, Johann is astonished to see that it is covered in snow. The recent storm has reshaped the ridges of the Finsteraarhorn, giving the mountain a new look. So we decided to cross the pass on skis before catching a glimpse of the Hugisattel in the distance. It's hard to measure distances in the mountains. So how do you measure how many hours separate us from the pass? Tired as we are, we want to believe that it's close, but from the sight of those tiny mountaineers climbing it on the horizon, we know it's still a long way off. Armed with courage, we set off, and more than ever I feel at home, determined to savour every moment of the journey. Ready to discover the imposing and grandiose figure of the Finsteraarhorn.
Crossing the glacier that stretches up to the Hugisattel, we finally reach it. Happy with this first victory over the king of the bernese alps, we plant our skis in the snow at 4088 metres and take a well-deserved break. At the crossroads of the glaciers and the Bernese ridges, we take a bite to eat, catching our breath under the watchful eye of the Finsteraarhorn. We then equip our boots with crampons and begin our ascent of the ridge leading to summit .
Ascent of the Finsteraarhorn: At over 4,000 metres in the bernese alps
On touring skis, equipped with sealskins, we progressed at a steady pace. But here the adventure takes a new turn. The climb is technical and the terrain demands a more sustained effort. Despite the obstacles, we rise quickly, carried by the thick carpet of snow covering the rocks. I'm delighted to be able to climb this ridge in perfect conditions. Under a resplendent sky, the mountains greet us in their sparkling whiteness. And, my heart pounding, I admire behind us the Grosses and Hinteres-Fiescherhorn we climbed the day before. Suspended between earth and sky, I feel out of breath, but at the same time delighted to be standing at the summit of bernese alps , as if on the roof of the world.
The going is tough, but we persevere. Until the moment of grace when we finally touch the cross at summit on the Finsteraarhorn. By dint of our endurance, Johann and I have made it, and we're shouting our joy to the high mountains. To the Alps and the blue sky. We look at each other with understanding. At the foot of the cross that marks the end of an unforgettable ascent, I realize that I've got a network. It's already been three days since we left the valley, and I can't reach my partner and daughter. So I hurried to call them. To reassure them, to hear their voices. To tell them that I'm thinking of them every minute.
Then, as I look up, I discover a breathtaking view of the Alps. A succession of whitened ridges blending into the deep blue of the horizon. It's as if nature's wonders were unfurling a celestial ocean before us. As if the Earth had been transformed into a world of ice. From the Matterhorn to Piz Bernina, Switzerland's highest mountains pass before our dazzled eyes. This is our ultimate reward. That's why I'll never tire of visiting summits. Because from up there you can see the most beautiful landscapes.
Ski descent of the Finsteraarhorn: Hugisattel Pass to Finsteraarhornhütte
After a few minutes of contemplation, it's time to head back down to Hugisattel. As I lose altitude, I regain my strength. The effort is less intense and our steps more brisk. Back at the pass, we swap our crampons for our touring skis. Up there, every gesture is measured. Our movements must be precise, accurate and controlled. So as not to squander our strength, so as not to needlessly expend the precious energy that keeps us going. And not to waste time either, because in the mountains, the hours fly by and the wind changes. Johann is efficient and methodical. His movements are rigorous, and he doesn't give in to the whims of fate. At his side, I have the unfortunate impression that I'm churning air and dispersing myself. But, together, we're making our way, come what may, on the backs of these giants that make the Alps a kingdom like no other. And I thank Johann for his kind help. Thanks to him, I'm surpassing myself and making progress.
We have a snack and then it's time for the descent. Looking at the snow, my hopes are dashed. It's bad, almost impassable. Our skis sink into it and we're trapped on rails formed by a crust of ice. It's impossible to take a turn and difficult to ski in these conditions. We had 400 meters of ascent to cover in this abominable box: the journey was tedious and our sensations unpleasant. Johann, who sees the positive in everything, tells me that those who manage to ski on this kind of snow can ski anywhere else. Not much consolation! Here, hell has joined summits and we are forced to cross it.
It's only at point 3616 that we find the firm snow we'd encountered at dawn. Thick spring snow, the kind of soft carpet you dream of in the high mountains. I could feel the exhilaration of the wild ride, the euphoria of the heights. That feeling of enjoyment that makes you forget everything. Almost flying over the mountain, I feel exhilarated. Carried by the euphoria of the winds, I exult in the descent. When the Alps welcome us in such conditions, the sensations we experience are incomparable.
Expedition in the heart of the Bernese mountains: From Fieschergletscher to Konkordiahütte
Back at the Finsteraarhornhütte, we gradually regain our composure. And we treat ourselves to a delicious rösti. Tasty, golden potatoes. From hell, we've finally reached paradise! After this salutary break, we continue our journey to Konkordiahütte. The sun is at its zenith and the ice glistening, so we protect ourselves with a cap on our heads and sunscreen on our skin. Ready for the day's final stage, we set off on the Fieschergletscher to reach the Grünhornlücke. As we walk, the view of the Finsteraarhorn opens up behind us, and I see the route we've just taken all over again. It's incredible when you think about it. How does man manage to reach such peaks? And how can I imagine that I am now one of the privileged few to have trodden the rock of this phenomenal summit ?
Arriving at the Grünhorn Pass, we remove the sealskins from our skis to face the Fiescher-Gabelhorn and the Chamm. As we cross the pass, we are fascinated by the sheer scale of the Konkordiaplatz and the glaciers that surround it. Like a star of ice stretching its arms across the Alpine sky. It's a magical sight. We continue our descent to the foot of the ladders leading to the Konkordia hut.
Exhausted by the day's exertions, we prepare to brave the interminable climb. In the past, the hut stood on the same level as the glacier we're walking on. But as the weather warms, the ice retreats and man has no choice but to build ladders to ensure access to the Konkordiahütte. That's why today we have to climb 300 metres to reach the hut. Every time I walk, I think of the fragility of the Alps, of their metamorphosis. And the visceral need to preserve their memory by photographing them.
Crossing the last step, I catch my breath. I'm happy, of course, to be able to rest at last. But the mountain is swarming, the refuge is full: 157 climbers will be sleeping there tonight. And I like to feel the breath of the lonely mountains. With heavy legs and aching muscles, Johann and I take our places on the terrace of the Konkordiahütte. Facing the Aletsch glacier, its fabulous crevasses and the mountains that surround it, we rest. In front of us, the flow of glaciers seems to respond to the dance of the clouds under a magnificent sky. What more could you ask of life?
So, of course, it's going to be a long night, with Spartan conditions. The same dormitory for everyone, each with their own mattress, stuck together. Of course, my family is far away and I miss them terribly. But I feel serene. Grateful to nature for the moments it gives us. For these remarkable moments, the emotions that overwhelm us. The unforgettable memory of climbing the Finsteraarhorn. And I fall asleep with a confident heart, already dreaming of tomorrow. The ascent of the Grosses-Grünhorn, the third stage of our expedition at over 4000 metres in the bernese alps.
