June 2023. I'm about toclimb the Rimpfischhorn. The mountain rises to 4199 meters between the valleys of Saas Fee and Zermatt, in the Valais Alps. I embark on this adventure without really knowing where it will take me. What is this imposing yet little-known colossus? I learn that its name comes from the unique shape of its northern ridge. Covered in dark teeth, it was formed by an ancient lava flow that erupted from the ocean millions of years ago. An incredible force of nature! Hidden treasure of the Valais. Like a mammoth tooth ready to tear the sky apart, the folds of its rocks reveal the richness of its history.
My journey begins at the bottom of the wild and little-known Täschalp valley. Once covered by gigantic glaciers, the valley's moraines are now exposed as remnants of its distant past. I'm accompanied by my guide, Johann Filliez, as well as my friend Alexis and his guide Antoine. The journey promises to be one of sharing. Drawing energy from the eyes of others, striving to surpass ourselves alongside people we care about. What an unforgettable experience!
From the Matterhorn to the Rimpfischhorn | Surprising Valais Alps
The day before, I'm on the slopes of the Matterhorn, happy to donate several of my works to the Hörnli hut. The installation of my photographs takes longer than expected. I can't get to the Täschhütte early enough to rest before the next day's ascent. I call Johann to find out what time we have to get up. To my surprise, he replies in a very natural tone: "At 2.30 a.m." "Are you kidding? "No, no, it's true!" One thing's for sure: it's going to be a short night! A little disorientated, I press on to reach the refuge, at 2701 metres altitude, at around 8pm.
As I approach the hut, the mountain offers me a magnificent cameo of colors, from the green of the valley to the white of the high summits. The Rimpfischhorn seems so close, despite the distance. Impatient to climb it, I regain my self-confidence. Our goal was to cross its northern ridge to reach the summit. In the end, however, we followed the sound advice of Renata, the Täschhütte warden. Reach summit and then follow the ridge. She promises us that this will reveal the full splendour of the landscape. And that the ascent of the Grand Gendarme, which rises valiantly at the end of the ridge, will be the apotheosis of a memorable journey.
On the approach to the Rimpfischhorn | From the Täschhütte to the edge of the Rimpfischhorn summit
D-Day. The alarm goes off at 2am. Still in the fog, I eat breakfast and get equipped. We've got a long day ahead of us. We leave Täschhütte at 3am. It's still dark and the mountain is asleep. We walk in silence to the Alphubelgletscher. I'm shocked to see how much this magnificent glacier has regressed in just a few years. After a steady climb, we suddenly have to descend 130 meters. In the darkness, this seemed impossible. Concentrating on our steps, we managed to make it. Then, at 4.45 am, we set foot on the Mellichgletscher, the royal road to the Rimpfischhorn pass. The halo of our headlamps illuminates its sumptuous ice, while the sky begins to fade on the horizon. At first light, the Rimpfischhorn suddenly appears in front of us. A gigantic mountain, like a haven of peace, overcomes the darkness.
We walk at a brisk pace. A long approach takes us to summit. High mountains have to be earned. It demands all the strength and courage a man can muster to have a chance of finally reaching it. Hours of solitude in which to dialogue with oneself. Hours of walking when we take stock of our lives and our relationship with the world. Where our mind wanders from positive images to darker thoughts. A duality of sensations, just like the mountains themselves: sparkling and dark, welcoming and implacable. My mind wavers between the creativity that summits inspires and the renunciation that pain encourages. My body weary and my muscles in pain, I ask myself why I'm here. Why this exhausting quest when my family is waiting for me downstairs? Why this irrepressible need to pay homage to the mountains, through my eyes and my photographs, to devote my art and my life to them, despite the obstacles and the heartbreaks?
I have to react. I have to channel my thoughts, stay focused on my steps, concentrate on my goal. Because deep down, I know why I'm here. And this need that burns deep within me, this visceral bond that unites me with nature, this need to convey the beauty of the mountains through art photography, carries me and gives meaning to my life. These moments of getting close to summits are a way of discovering oneself, becoming aware of one's values and priorities. And then to come back bigger and better than before. And, beyond being a rebirth, climbing the summits alps is above all a moment of intense pleasure and sharing.
Climbing the Rimpfischhorn | 4199 metres above sea level
Behind us, summits appear on the horizon. We're gradually leaving the world below and entering the realm of the heavens. Opposite us, the ridges of the Rimpfischhorn look inviting. The illusion of heights. On our way, the glacier reveals its crevasses. Thousands of years of ice accumulation. What a magnificent and moving sight! After several hours' approach, we finally arrive at the small Rimpfischsattel pass. We're happy with the distance we've covered and eager to begin our traverse. After a short break, we decide to tackle the ascent of summit. It's 7:15 a.m. and the sky is clear. We climb 200 metres. The scenery all around us is splendid. Behind us, the Monte Rosa massif sparkles in the sun. I can even see the Matterhorn. The snow-covered slopes are sometimes steep, reaching 45 degrees. After a 4-hour hike, we enjoy a moment of climbing. I like to climb to the rhythm of the rocks. We move forward, stop and take a break. The team spirit is more present than on the approach, and the experience more invigorating.
The higher we climb, the more fabulous the horizon becomes. Until that magical moment when we finally reach the summit of the Rimpfischhorn. At an altitude of over 4,000 metres, we catch our breath. Happy to have made this ascent together. The view of the Swiss Alps from the top is breathtaking. From the Imperial Crown of Zinal to Mont Blanc, via Grand Combin : the mountain offers us an exceptional panorama of the Valais. I can also see the Strahlhorn rising nearby. Its soft, velvety snow blends with the milky white of the sky. Its lines are pure and its cracks magnificent. Like a corner of paradise lost at the edge of our dreams.
North ridge of the Rimpfischhorn | Valais hidden treasure
After a few moments' rest, it's time to tackle the north ridge of the Rimpfischhorn. But when we see it like this, the traverse, which from below seemed rather gentle, suddenly appears to be an austere race. Its exposed black rock is sometimes covered with patches of snow, whereas it is normally traversed when the rock is dry. There are no tracks to show us the way. Faced with such an unwelcoming ridge, I'm filled with doubts. Does it make sense to venture up it? Wouldn't it be better to turn back? Looking worried, I look at Johann. But, as far as he's concerned, it's a done deal. The crossing is feasible, so off we go. That's when I realize just how valuable the presence of a mountain guide can be. Alone with a friend, I would have hesitated and probably backed off. But Johann helps me to overcome my doubts. With him, doubt gives way to action, in complete safety.
Around 8 a.m., we leave summit for an impressive journey along the ridge of the Rimpfischhorn. The adventure begins with abseiling. When my feet touch the ground again, I set off with Johann as lead rope, while Alexis and Antoine follow. One by one, we cross the gendarmes that dot the mountain. Dark and rigorous in appearance, the route turns out to be grandiose and wild. Illuminated by the sun, the ridge changes its face. What a thrilling adventure! Imagine being the first to set foot on the rock of this remote ridge, with no landmarks to show us the way. Discovering alone the passages that allow us to move forward, and making tracks for the roped parties to come.
L'ascension du grand gendarme | The crowning achievement of our journey
When, all of a sudden, the moment we've all been waiting for arrives. The crowning moment of our ascent of the Rimpfischhorn: the traverse of the Grand Gendarme. This compact, imposing rock peaks at 4107 meters and can be climbed in three pitches. Johann climbs each pitch before belaying me and taking me up. After more than 7 hours, our legs are heavy and we're getting tired. Faced with this key passage, the most difficult to climb, we have to gather our energy and refocus on our goal. Taking off our crampons, we soak up the atmosphere of the mountain, the new sensations of our feet on the rocks. Then it's time to launch ourselves.
Johann leads the way. And my thoughts once again turn to the mountain guides, without whom we wouldn't be able to realize our mountaineering dreams. Then it's my turn to climb. The experience is dizzying and makes me uneasy. The technical difficulty of this segment of the climb isn't too high for me, but hanging from a harness at this height is unnatural. Human beings were not designed to perform this kind of feat. My heart urges me on, while my primal instinct puts the brakes on. But, at this moment, I have no choice but to move forward.
Once we reach summit of this final gendarme, we can see the whole of the traverse we've just completed. The majestic Rimpfischhorn, crowned with all its gendarmes, in the heart of a magnificent glacial landscape. What an incredible journey! With our heads full of memories and our eyes dazzled by such beauty, we make our way back down the snowy slope to the Allalinpass. Aware that the difficulties are behind us, we have to stay focused to avoid slipping. Because, in the mountains, a moment's inattention can be fatal. We reached the pass shortly after 12 noon and crossed the refuge gate at 2.20pm. Over 12 hours of a sensational odyssey. 1900 meters of ascent and descent. Looking back one last time, we would have liked to see the mountain again, but it had disappeared beneath the clouds. And so we turned the page on our journey.
Climbing the Rimpfischhorn was a challenge for me, both physically and psychologically. Reacclimatized to alpine sensations, I feel ready to pursue new adventures. With one goal in mind: to climb the 82 summits 4000-meter peaks in the Alps. Tonight, I'm savoring my 37th victory. With dreams in my heart, I fall asleep in the refuge, ready to set off again the next day to conquerAllalinhorn and its southern ridge.
