May 11, 2024. The last stage of our expedition at over 4,000 metres in the bernese alps mountains. Accompanied by my guide Johann Filliez, I have already climbed the Grosses and Hinteres Fiescherhorn as well as the Finsteraarhorn in the previous days. Today we're preparing to ski up the Grosses Grünhorn, an unassuming yet magnificent mountain that I can't wait to discover.
At summit bernese alps : an overnight stay at Konkordiahütte
It was a short night in the Konkordiahütte. The refuge is authentic and welcomes us in vast dormitories. On the floor, one mattress follows another. The smell of wood mingles with the scent of bodies worn out by the fatigue of days gone by. Of course, we enjoy the warmth of the place, sheltered from the bitter cold outside. But my sleep is light. Leaning against the dormitory wall, my dreams are punctuated by the warm breath of my neighbor, who grazes the nape of my neck with his bushy beard. Johann, on the other hand, has a more comfortable room. Guides spend most of their time in the mountains. Their nights must be serene, as the safety of their clients depends on their vigilance.
My alarm goes off at 5 o'clock and the morning routine resumes. I eat a buttered sandwich and a bircher, thinking about the adventure ahead. To reach summit of the Grosses Grünhorn at 4043 meters altitude. Walking in the footsteps of Erhard Loretan, the famous mountain guide and mountaineer who lost his life on the flanks of this undaunted mountain. Despite the shadow that hangs over this crossing, I approach it with a light heart. It's been three days since we set off, and we've overcome all the trials and tribulations nature has thrown at us. We've already climbed three Alpine giants. My body has gradually acclimatized to the high altitude. And I know that tomorrow I'll be hugging my partner and my daughter.
Ski ascent of Grosses Grünhorn: Ewigschneefäld traverse
Our expedition begins at 5.45 a.m., as dawn breaks over Konkordiaplatz and the Aletschhorn. How beautiful the Alps are in the light of dawn! I love the pure, deep light that endows the mountains with iridescent reflections. Faced with nature's sublime spectacle, we put on our skis. And when the sun's rays light up the surrounding ridges, we're off. 1300 meters of ascent await us on fabulous glaciers. We let ourselves slide at the foot of the hut before donning our skis. We're plunged into a picture of almost unreal beauty as we traverse the Ewigschneefäld, a field of eternal snow. An ocean of ice, a froth of snow. Through crevasses and dormant faults, we sail. A monochrome of deep and translucent blues, light and dark. A thousand-year-old river that moves and dances to the rhythm of the sun. What are we in the depths of this immensity? A tiny presence, a hint of restlessness. Our eyes filled with stars, we progress at a steady pace. Sure-footed and unstoppable.
After crossing the first serac bars of the Ewigschneefäld, at around 3200 metres altitude, we turn east towards the glacial valley leading to the Grosses Grünhorn. We can now see the mountain defying the horizon. We stay on course and climb gently. From firm, deep snow, which augurs a delightful descent, our skis now tread on crusty snow which, I hope, will not make us relive the hell of the previous day.
We then have to pass under some impressive seracs. They are certainly magnificent, but their presence makes our crossing more perilous. Our pace is quickening, but the road is long. I've reached my limit and can't accelerate any further. What if blocks of ice break off the glacier? I contemplate these gigantic masses above me, creatures as menacing as they are prodigious. I can only entrust my fate to fate.
This time, the mountain spares us. Johann and I continue our ascent and the sun comes out. We welcomed it with open arms, as it was getting colder in the shade. Like every morning at such altitudes, I had lost all feeling in my fingers. The high mountains are a land of contrasts. The biting cold of the moon is followed by the scorching heat of the sun. In this extreme environment, our bodies suffer and our minds must remain strong to meet the challenge they have set themselves.
Ski ascent of the Grosses Grünhorn: A breathtaking panorama
After several hours on touring skis, we reach the pass linking the Grünegghorn and Grosses Grünhorn at around 9:30 am. At an altitude of 3900 metres, we relax and have a snack. It's then that the view opens up, taking my heart to pure ecstasy. In front of us, the mountains pass in almost perfect alignment. Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Dent Blanche, Aletschhorn and Mont Blanc. From the heights of the Valais to the borders of France, the Alps greet us. And I find myself dreaming that in this sublime moment, nature has designed this panorama for me. The mountain lover, the peak photographer. The work is masterful, its dynamics remarkable and the balance of its forms a marvel under the sky.
Invigorated by so much splendor, we continue our ascent before putting down our skis. Then it's time to climb the ridge leading to summit of the Grosses Grünhorn. Equipped with crampons, we climb the rocky, snow-covered ridge. Conditions are excellent and climbing this ridge is a pleasure.
When we reach the summit of the Grosses Grünhorn, I discover yet another divine horizon. Without a doubt, the most beautiful view I've seen during my 4-day expedition to bernese alps. A breathtaking landscape. A unique and grandiose perspective. Overlooking the surrounding glaciers, the mountain reveals the entire Alps. The whitened ridges guide our gaze into the distance, flying over the Alps and their rock giants. The mythical Finsteraarhorn, whose vertiginous walls we were treading on just yesterday, also comes to mind.
Ski ascent of Grosses Grünhorn: descent to Konkordiaplatz
The ascent of the Grosses Grünhorn sounded like the final stage of our expedition to bernese alps. We made our way back down to the refuge. With every step, we redoubled our vigilance in memory of Erhard Loretan, who disappeared on this ridge. It's hard to understand why he fell. Had he let his guard down, despite being one of the world's most renowned mountaineers? A seasoned climber who knew the high Alpine terrain better than anyone. We remain on the lookout for the slightest imponderable, guided by a single objective: to see our beloved families again as soon as possible.
Back at the place where we had set down our skis, we had a snack. Then, despite the poor snow conditions, we set off on skis along the glacial valley leading to the Ewigschneefäld. Soon we were back in the spring snow that makes every descent so exhilarating. By the time we reached the bottom, I was so exhilarated that I almost wanted to go back up the slope only to come back down again. That's how much I love ski touring! When conditions are optimal, sliding on snow is a supreme pleasure.
Arriving at the Konkordiahütte, Johann and I celebrate the end of our trip comfortably seated on the hut's terrace. Imagine sharing a beer with your fellow climber in a magical frame . You're a dazzled spectator of the scene being played out in this improvised theater. How else to define paradise on Earth? We raise our glasses to the grandeur of the Alps, their majestic glaciers, their titanic mountains. We raise our glasses to friendship, blue skies and life. Recalling our past ascents and our future adventures, we stay up later than usual. For tomorrow, we know that no summit awaits our visit. The air is Soft, the stars are twinkling and we breathe a little before going to sleep.
Expedition to over 4000 meters in the bernese alps: Back to Fiesch
The night wears on and we wake up at 5:30 am. This morning, the sky is grey and the mist threatens to invade the glaciers. To reach the valley, we have to cross the Aletschgletscher, and we don't want to have to traverse Europe's longest glacier in thick fog. So we put on our skis and leave the hut as quickly as possible. In a muted atmosphere, the Aletschgletscher unfolds its infinite shades of white. After 20 minutes' skiing, we finally reach the bottom of the glacier, now covered in Saharan sand. A strange creation of a nature that loves to play with the elements.
But time is of the essence. At this time of year, there are very few skips to reach the valley. A race against time begins. We speed through the Tälligrat tunnel, which runs under the Eggishorn to link the Aletschgletscher with the Fiescheralp station. Out of breath, we manage in extremis to jump into the cable car that takes us back to the Fiesch station. Relieved, we catch our breath as we fly over the green mountainside.
When we got back, I realized that, having climbed the Grosses and Hinteres-Fiescherhorn, the Finsteraarhorn and the Grosses Grünhorn, I had climbed 50 summits of the 82 4000-meter peaks that are officially part of the Alps. When I look back on my route and my progress, I'm proud and moved by how far I've come. And my heart leaps at the idea of one day treading the crests of the 32 colossi I still have to climb.
Previously, I'd only known the Grosses Grünhorn from afar. Climbing it on skis, I discovered a magnificent mountain with an inspiring silhouette. Today, I see it in a whole new light. A bond Powerful now unites us, and I look forward to our future tête-à-têtes. Back up there, at over 4,000 metres, at bernese alps to contemplate the Grosses-Grünhorn once again. To photograph it and offer you its most beautiful portrait.
