Mont Rose stands like a fortress of rock and ice on the border between Switzerland and Italy. The second-highest mountain range in the Alps after Mont Blanc, it culminates at the summit the Dufourspitze, at 4633 m altitude. Mont Rose rises to nature's challenges. Its vertiginous Italian face towers above all other walls in the Alps, and the Dufourspitze, queen of the mountains, dominates Switzerland. But when the light fades and the curtain falls, what remains of this wall? Here, I present a portrait of the Monte Rosa massif, its thousand-year-old history and its encounter with man.
The origin of Mount Rose: its eternal ice
As far back as the memory of the Alps goes, the Monte Rosa massif owes its name to the brilliance of its eternal snows. Rouesa, from the Low Latin rosia, means glacier in Valle d'Aosta dialect, as does Gletscher, the name of the massif in Grisons dialect. The mountain of ice, but also the big horn, the Gornerhorn in Valais German. Today, this origin continues in the names Gornergrat and Gornergletscher, but no longer applies to the mountains themselves. The Mont Rose appellation is now written in gold letters in history. Whether you speak Italian, French or German, Monte Rosa is as deeply rooted in our language as it is in our hearts.
Portrait of the Monte Rosa massif: On the border of the Swiss and Italian Alps
The Monte Rosa massif stands at the crossroads of worlds. Between heaven and earth, ice unites with gneiss, granite and micaschist to form the border between Switzerland and Italy. An impassable citadel that gives glory to the Alps. Overlooking Zermattthe western slopes of Monte Rosa owe their splendour to the gigantic glaciers that cover them. The Grenzgletscher, Monte Rosagletscher and Gornergletscher form an immense glacial valley lined with faults and seracs. Imposing and grandiose, Monte Rosa is equally so on the Italian side. Its eastern slope, overlooked by Nordend, forms an unrivalled 2400 m wall above Macugnaga and the Belvedere glacier. As for its southern slope, culminating at the summit Pointe Gnifetti or Signalkuppe, it links Piedmont and Valsesia with the Aosta Valley and the Gressoney valley.
The Monte Rosa massif is made up of twelve distinct summits over 4000 m high. From north to south, they form a succession of ridges in the sky that invite you to travel and discover: Nordend, Dufourspitze, Pointe Dunand, Grenzgipfel, Zumsteinspitze, Pointe Gnifetti or Signalkuppe, Parrotspitze, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero, Balmenhorn, Pyramide Vincent and Pointe Giordani. A prodigious colossus at 4633 m, the Dufourspitze is the highest peak in Monte Rosa and Switzerland.
Finally, the Mont Rose massif overlooks the meadows of Switzerland and Italy: the Lys valley in the Aosta Valley; the Valsesia and Anzasca valleys in the heart of Piedmont; the Zermatt valley at the bottom of the Valais. Here, abundance meets rigor, the gentle way of life meets exacting standards, the eternal meets the fleeting. The result is one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Alps.
Portrait of the Mont Rose massif: Man's first steps on the Lisjoch ridges
Echoes of the Monte Rosa massif date back to the late 15th century. Whether geological explorers or the simply curious, the high summits the Alps and their eternal snows intrigued observers. In his notes, Leonardo da Vinci mentions the grandeur and brilliance of Monte Rosa and its Italian side.
Then, at the end of the 18th century, a legend was born on the slopes of the massif, enticing the most intrepid men to venture there. In Italian lands, it is said that there is a lost valley beyond the peaks, hidden in the shadow of the high glaciers. A golden valley of green pastures, countless herds and lush crops. When the rumor reaches the ears of guide Joseph Beck, his eyes suddenly light up. What if he was the one to lift the veil on this Eldorado?
One morning in August 1778, he left Gressoney-la-Trinité with his brother Valentin, Sébastien Linty, Joseph Zumstein, Nicolas Vincent, François Castel and Étienne Lisco. Together, they ascend the Lysgletscher, climbing ice and rock together. Together, they reached the summit the glacier, at over 4000 m altitude. And from the top of the Lisjoch, which they christened the Rocher de la Découverte, they discovered a breathtaking spectacle. Glaciers flowing as far as the eye could see, and on the horizon, the mysterious valley of their dreams. You know this valley: the fabulous Zermatt Valley. Eight years before the first ascent of Mont Blanc, the conquest of the Alps had already begun.
Ascent of the Monte Rosa massif: From Punta Giordani to Zumsteinspitze
At the dawn of the 19th century, men's desire to reach the highest summits the Alps was growing, and Monte Rosa was no exception. But before they could conquer its highest point, they had to overcome its many strongholds. In 1801, Pietro Giordani climbed the southern ridge of Monte Rosa, making the first ascent of a peak that would later be named Pointe Giordani in honor of his feat. On August 15, 1819, Nicolas and Joseph Vincent became the first to climb the summit that would come to be known as the Vincent Pyramid.
On August 1, 1820, still hoping to reach the highest point of the Monte Rosa massif, Nicolas and Joseph Vincent left the valley in the company of Joseph Zumstein. The expedition was a perilous one, with many obstacles to overcome. On the way up, the ice threatened to collapse on them, while on the way down, the snow melted visibly under an overly generous sun. And when they finally arrive at the coveted summit , the massif has a surprise in store for them. Facing them is an even higher peak. They haven't reached the summit of Monte Rosa, but a secondary peak that we'll call the Zumsteinspitze, again in homage to its discoverer.
Journey to the summit the Monte Rosa massif: First ascent of Dufourspitze
The Dufourspitze was still only known as the Höchste Spitze ("highest summit ") when it was climbed for the first time. On August 1, 1855, eight climbers set out to conquer the Monte Rosa massif. That year, many more attempts were made on the walls of this mountain range. But this time, the men were determined to conquer its summit. Victory is theirs for sure! Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck, Ulrich Lauener, Christopher and James G. Smyth, E.J. Stevenson, J. Zumtaugwald and their porter leave Zermatt in the dead of night for the Riffelhorn. They then crossed the Gornergletscher, like the roped parties before them. But then the mountain presents them with a dilemma. And on their decision will depend their victory. Should they follow the ridge linking the Nordend to the Höchste Spitze, like their predecessors? Or would it be better to reach the Höchste Spitze via its west face?
Until now, no one has ever succeeded in crossing the last few meters separating the Nordend from the summit Mount Rose. Charles Hudson is convinced that their best option is to be bold. Together, they must dare to open a route on the flanks of Mount Rose if they are to succeed in conquering the mountain. His mind is made up. Determined, he embarks on the race alongside C. Smyth, and their companions follow suit. Together, they face snow, ice and broken rock. And from one ridge to the next, they finally reach the final crest. Just a few meters, yet it seems endless. For the rock is unstable and the snow devious. On either side of this fragile line, the void threatens to engulf them. Those in the party who have already climbed Mont Blanc realize just how much more formidable Mont Rose is. But they make progress, in spite of everything. Sure-footed and more determined than ever, the team climbs the rocks one by one. And when their feet finally land on the highest point of the Mont Rose massif, they are the happiest of all mountaineers.
All around them, the Alps salute their feat. Charles Hudson is immensely happy at this moment. Like an accomplishment until the next trip. Little did he know that, ten years later, the mountain would relentlessly take his life. On July 14, 1865, having just completed the first ascent of the Matterhorn alongside Edward Whymper, he suffered a terrible accident on the way down. But for now, let's leave him to enjoy this moment of grace up there.
The Monte Rosa massif no longer holds any secrets for man. And the Höchste Spitze, later christened Dufourspitze, opened its routes to the most valiant climbers. In 1872, its gigantic eastern wall was climbed for the first time by a team from Macugnaga.
Ascent of Mont Rose: A unique adventure at the summit the Alps
Today, Mont Rose attracts visitors from all over the world. Among the high mountain refuges dotting the massif, the Mont Rose hut stands out for its modernity. Its architecture is spectacular, innovative and respectful of the environment. Mont Rose is also home to the highest guarded refuge in the Alps. The Cabane Reine-Marguerite, or Margherita hut, welcomes climbers at 4554 m altitude, at the summit the Pointe Gnifetti or Signalkuppe. It houses a weather station and a search center for altitude-related pathologies. But above all, it offers mountaineers the exceptional opportunity to climb the summits Mont Rose in just a few days. And if you, too, feel the urge to traverse the crests of Mont Rose, you should know that out there, beyond the clouds, awaits you one of the most beautiful climbs in the Alps.
The Mont-Rose massif reveals itself to mankind in successive stages. Just as its summits link the sky and the valleys. Portrait of a wall, the story of a titan who adorns himself in ice to reign over the Alps. I love to contemplate, explore and photograph these mountains. Because from up there, everything seems possible, the world is grandiose. On the heights of Monte Rosa, between Switzerland and Italy, my dream comes true, and yours too.
