June 2024. I'm about to reach summit on the Aletschhorn. Mother of the Aletschgletscher, Europe's largest glacier, this titanic mountain stands alone in the heart of eternal snow. I've been thinking about crossing the Aletschhorn for so long. But now it's time to go to bernese alps and make this dream come true.
Crossing the Aletschhorn: Prelude to a journey in the bernese alps
It all began several years ago with a call from Vivian Bruchez. He had just crossed the Aletschhorn from west to east, and wanted to illustrate his expedition with one of my photographs. Exhilarated by this adventure, he tells me about the splendor of the ridge that leads from the Sattelhorn to the Aletschhorn, the beauty of the landscape at summit, the magic of this little-known route. I tell myself that one day I too will make this crossing.
Time goes by and when my guide, Johann Filliez, invites me to join him on the crests of the Aletschhorn, I feel transported. The memory of this intriguing and sublime route. A thirst for a new challenge. I suggest to Johann that we follow this route, which is rarely used by climbers. And he accepts my offer with enthusiasm. This spring resounds in us like the hope of a fabulous journey.
A few days later, we join Antoine Délitroz and Alexis Mangez at Hollandia hut, 3238 m above sea level on the Anungrat. We won't need too many rope parties to conquer the Aletschhorn. At this time of year, the hut is not guarded. The mountain does not yet welcome men. It breathes and regenerates, nestled under the snow, until the first heat returns. We thought we were alone in the high mountains, but the hut is full. Still, we managed to make room for the short night. Barely a few hours' sleep and the alarm goes off at 2am. It's going to be a long crossing, and if we're to have any chance of completing it, every minute counts.
Crossing the Aletschhorn: From Hollandia hut to summit on the Sattelhorn
At 3 a.m. we leave the Hollandiahütte, reaching the Lötschenlücke 15 minutes later. The start of our traverse. The goal suddenly seems very ambitious. I've never before tackled the north face of a summit at over 4000 m altitude. And this is a very wild, little-travelled and little-documented route. I have a strange, vertiginous sensation of plunging into the unknown. My thoughts are racing and I'm overcome with fear. Will I make it? Will I succeed in surpassing myself once again? Nothing is easy for me in the high mountains. Not the altitude acclimatization, not the hand-to-hand combat with the rock, not even the ski descents. Fortunately, I know I can count on Johann for support. But there's no time to procrastinate. I take a breath and set off into the deep night with my rope brothers.
We set off up the north face of the Sattelhorn. Immediately, our fervor is confronted with reality: conditions are abysmal. The motionless clouds in the sky prevent the snow from hardening. Without refreezing, the snow is melting and far too thick. Our ascent promises to be perilous, but Johann, as always, shows unfailing courage. He goes ahead of me to make the trail. With each step, he digs in and stirs up the snow. The task is exhausting, but he holds on. I move along behind him and, despite his efforts, I sink too. As we climb, we take turns, one rope to the next. When Antoine leads the way, we regain our strength before returning to the head of the line.
Painfully, we make our way up, determination firmly in our bodies. Suddenly, at a glance, we catch sight of another team behind us. Two mountaineers from the Canton of Berne we had met the day before at the Hollandia hut. What luck! A true sign of providence. Johann would later tell me that without their help we'd probably never have reached the Aletschhorn. Together, we clear the way. Together, we make faster progress. Finally arriving at summit on the Sattelhorn at 5:30 in the morning. As if to urge us on, the light of dawn disperses the clouds. Pale pink and blue, they dance across the sky like the promise of a divine odyssey.
Ascent of the Aletschhorn: Crossing the east ridge
Shortly before reaching the summit of the Sattelhorn, we join its eastern ridge in the direction of the Kleines Aletschhorn. When the mist once again takes hold of summits. What's the point of all this effort if you can't see the panorama? Why bother if the Alps themselves are shrouded in fog? If I climb up there, it's to contemplate them, to photograph them. To enjoy their beauty, to feed off their grace. But a sudden burst of light erases my torment. The sun suddenly breaks through the clouds to flood the sky with its fiery rays. I'm transported to the very beginnings of the world. Nature plays before our dazzled eyes the enchanting prelude to a new history. This is why I love the Alps. This is why I fight against myself every day. Why I persist, despite the obstacles. To experience moments of heavenly beauty. To tread these places forgotten by man, where light is born from the chaos of the winds.
The horizon reveals the next stage of our journey: summit the Aletschhorn, which still seems so far away. In the sunshine, I feel invigorated. But the dawn has started the countdown. We have to keep up the pace before the snow warms up. In the high mountains, it's a constant race. On the ridge leading from the Kleines Aletschhorn to the Aletschhorn, the snow forms a 30 cm thick crust. Every step takes all our energy and attention. Our roped parties take it in turns to make the trail. Gusts of wind batter the skis on our backs, threatening to blow us away at any moment. Then, by dint of perseverance, we finally reach the foot of the Aletschhorn. I look at my watch: it's 7am. We've been climbing the snow-covered rocks of the summits Bernese Alps for 4 hours now.
Ascent of the Aletschhorn: At 4194 m in the bernese alps
500 m of ascent now separate us from the highest point of the Aletschhorn. This last stretch is the steepest. My heart rate is accelerating. But the snow is good and I feel serene. 100 m from summit, we put down our skis to brave the rock. It's the last mixed run, with snow following on from granite. At 9:47 am, we finally reach the summit of the Aletschhorn. 6 hours 30 of a grueling journey that has taken us to 4194 m altitude. What a joy to be up there! I meet the eyes of my rope-mates and the Bernese friends who helped us so much. Together, we made it.
All around us, the mountains stretch as far as the eye can see. From the Valais to Mont Blanc, the Alps greet us. As I turn around, I find myself facing the Fiescherhörner, the Grosses Grünhorn and the Finsteraarhorn, which Johann and I climbed just a few weeks before this ascent. It's a breathtaking sight that brings tears to my eyes. What a privilege it is to be up there! Smiling at each other, we regain our strength. I eat an energy bar and drink a little water. Then it's time to leave the giant's summit .
Crossing the Aletschhorn: Descent via Mittelaletschgletscher
We head back down the ridge to collect our gear. We take off our skins and put on our skis. Then we set off along the east ridge of the Aletschhorn. The snow is quite pleasant to ski, but the furious winds repeatedly try to knock me over. At point 3713, we have to turn onto the south side of the mountain to reach the Mittelaletschgletscher. But the slope is steep and, under the gusts, my balance is fragile. I watch my friends surf the snow with agility. My heart yearns to join them, but my body remains strangely frozen. I can't glide my skis anymore. To overcome my fear, I decide to go down the stairs. Johann, for his part, organizes an abseil to lend me a hand. What would I be without him? After the ordeal, I hold my breath until I reach the bottom of the slope, eager to ski on the beautiful carpet that covers the Mittelaletschgletscher.
On the glacier, I glide along, leaving the difficulties behind me. Drunk with joy, I thank the Alps for giving me so many thrills. But this happy respite is short-lived. It's already midday and the snow beneath my skis becomes heavier and deeper. All around us, the numerous crevasses and seracs are seriously hampering our progress. This traverse is definitely full of surprises.
Aletschhorn traverse: From Aletschgletscher to Fiescheralp station
At 2700 m, the danger is finally behind us. Descending the glacier becomes less risky. At the end of the Mittelaletschgletscher, the Aletschgletscher awaits us. But, to our amazement, we discover that there's no more snow at the junction of the two glaciers. For once, we had to take off our skis and continue our expedition on foot.
After half an hour, our footsteps finally land on a strip of snow. We begin our ascent from the Aletschgletscher to the Tälligrat tunnel. A three-hour walk through a maze of ice and snow. Weaving our way through an abstract landscape that seems to have sprung straight from a prodigious dream. I lose track of time as reality suddenly catches up with us. We reach the Tälligrat tunnel at 3.45pm, and the last cable car drops off at 5pm. If we're too late, we'll have to continue the descent on foot. Exhausted by our day, it's the last thing we want to do!
We don't have a minute to lose. We take off our skis one last time and stride through the tunnel beneath the Eggishorn. The last few meters are approaching and time is running out. So we run like hell to the Fiescheralp station. At 5 p.m., we barely jump into the skip that takes us down to Fiesch station. At last, we can catch our breath.
From first light to nightfall, this day spent on the heights of the Aletschhorn was incredible. It will forever be engraved in my memory as one of my finest races in the Alps. Because time erases difficulties. Pains fade, fears dissipate. All that remains are the moments of grace. The taste of victory, fraternity, the strength of the mountains and the splendor of the Alps. Today, I climbed my 51st summit of the 82 4000 m peaks in the Alps. The adventure continues, ever more exhilarating.
