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High-altitude wines: discover three exceptional cellars in the Valais vineyards

Written by Thomas Crauwels
The verdant vineyards of Domaine Tourbillon in Sion, dominated by the iconic Château de Valère, with the Valais Alps in the background.

When the vine blends with the aura of the mountains, the Valais Alps unfurl their winegrowing treasures. On land sculpted by the mountains, vines seem to have found their rightful place. It finds refuge on steep, sunny slopes, clinging to terraces that men have been building for decades, if not centuries. Three emblematic wineries open their doors to us today: Cordonier & Lamon, Provins and des Bouquetins. Three interpretations of the same passion, three testimonies to a know-how that transforms the fruit of the earth into the elixir of the gods.

1 - The Cordonier & Lamon winery: a jewel of the Valais

Elegant tasting area at the Cordonier & Lamon SA winery, featuring carefully displayed wine bottles, plant decor and traditional barrel.
The Cordonier & Lamon SA winery, where Valais winemaking tradition and modernity meet (© Cordonier & Lamon SA)

On the slopes of Sierre, in the heart of the Valais, the winegrowing village of Flanthey is home to a cellar of a thousand and one flavors. Let me introduce you to the Cordonier & Lamon winery as a jewel in the Swiss Alps. But first, let me describe Flanthey. Perched high above the Rhone Valley, Flanthey offers a breathtaking panorama of the Valais Alps. Here, nature emerges in all its glory. In winter, snow-capped summits watch over the village, while in the distance, the mythical Crans-Montana ski area welcomes the most privileged visitors.

Since 1942, the Cordonier & Lamon winery has flourished in this unique viticultural setting. Founded by Alfred Bonvin, it was taken over in 1962 by Arthur Cordonier, whose children, Martine and Jacques, manage it today. Located in an exceptional terroir, it has never ceased to innovate: planting new grape varieties, creating different ranges and mastering the entire process from seed to bottle. Today, the winery offers a wide range of authentic, characterful wines.

The winery draws its identity from the Valais terroir. At an altitude of 700 meters, the terraced vineyards benefit from generous sunshine and a climate contrasting Mediterranean mildness and Alpine rigor. The result is wines with a strong character. What sets them apart is above all their origin: an alpine terroir where vines cling to steep, stony slopes. Shaped by erosion and glaciers, these varied soils offer a rich diversity of expression to the grape varieties.

When cellar manager Jacques Cordonier is asked which grape varieties are emblematic, two names come to mind: Cornalin du Valais for the reds and Heida (from the Savagnin Blanc grape) for the whites. Cornalin thrives on the slopes of Sierre, producing a complex, supple and Powerful wine when fully mature. Heida, for its part, finds the high terraces of Flanthey an ideal setting in which to express its typical, crystalline elegance.

Tasting a glass of white wine from the Cordonier & Lamon SA winery, with the sunny Valais vineyards in the background.
Tasting authentic Valais wines at Cordonier & Lamon SA, in the heart of an exceptional winegrowing landscape (© Cordonier & Lamon SA)

Most of our wines mature in stainless steel vats. Innovative winemaking methods, such as gentler maceration for the reds, are used to achieve greater finesse. Where conditions permit, the vines are planted with grass to ensure a natural balance.

The meticulous work of the Cordonier & Lamon winery and the quality of its wines do not go unnoticed. Two of their cuvées recently won awards: the Merlot, aged 12 months in oak barrels, and the Triumvirat Or, a blend of overripe grapes. But the most surprising cuvée remains "3170", a blend of Merlot and Ancellotta aged at an altitude of 3170 meters, in the Trient hut. At this height, the extreme conditions allow the tannins to work much more Soft.

Tasting wines from the Cordonier & Lamon cellar, you'll embark on a gustatory journey to the heart of the Valais Alps. The journey will take you from the steep slopes of Sierre to the dizzying summits the Rhône Valley. Close your eyes. Let these vintages tell you all about the beauty of this mountain terroir. Taste and savor the cellar's most exceptional wines.

If you'd like to immerse yourself in this fascinating world, the Cordonier & Lamon winery opens its doors to visitors. You'll discover the winemaking facilities, then take a tour of the adjoining vineyards. On May 29, 30 and 31, during the Ascension weekend, the "Les Caves Ouvertes" event invites you to immerse yourself in the world of Cordonier & Lamon. For an unforgettable experience, the winery offers a tasting walk in the heart of a family-run mountain pasture. Surrounded by mountain peaks, you'll be enchanted by a symphony of mountain flavors.

2 - La Cave Provins: a flagship winery near Sion

Modern facade of the Provins winery in Valais, a famous winegrower since 1930, with mountain panorama in the background
Provins, the emblematic home of Valais wines, set in a natural setting (© Olivier Maire)

At the foot of the Valais Alps, between tradition and contrasting landscapes, Provins stands out as a jewel of Swiss viticulture. With almost 600 hectares of vineyards spread throughout the Valais, this winery showcases a unique know-how and an undiminished passion for wine. More than 100 products, available in some twenty ranges, reveal the full richness of these terroirs.

Let me tell you the fabulous story of the Provins winery. It began in the late 1920s, at a time when Valais winegrowing was going through a particularly difficult phase. At the instigation of State Councillor Maurice Troillet, several winegrowers decided to join forces to face up to the economic challenges. This courageous alliance gave birth to the Fédération des caves coopératives valaisannes, which officially became the Provins winery in 1934. The name "Provins" was chosen that year by Joseph Michaud: "It was a fortunate find and made a fortune, for it had that virtue, poetic among all, of playing on two meanings while retaining brevity, vigor and accuracy", he asserted. The name thus has a double meaning. It refers to the promotion of wines and the defense of Valais winegrowers. But provins also refers to the stems that take root in contact with the earth, enabling the vine to develop naturally, through provignement. 

Provins soon distinguished itself by its innovative spirit and relentless pursuit of excellence in all its areas of activity. In 1937, Albert Luisier radically changed the way grapes were transported, introducing wooden crates to preserve the integrity of the grapes. This proposal immediately aroused indignation and resistance among a large number of winegrowers... But the quality of the grapes that arrived whole at the winery in this way finally convinced even the most resistant. The winery took a decisive step forward in 1945 with the creation of the "Capsule Dorée" competition, the first quality control system applied directly on the vine. This helped to make Provins the number one quality winery in the Valais. The year 1973 marked a second major turning point with the birth of the prestigious Maître de Chais range, the first Provins wines to be barrel-aged. This range included Pinot Noir for the reds, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay for the whites.

The verdant vineyards of Domaine Tourbillon in Sion, dominated by the iconic Château de Valère, with the Valais Alps in the background.
Domaine Tourbillon, a perfect blend of Valais terroir, medieval history and Alpine panorama (© Cave Provins)

The expertise of the Provins winery is evident in each of its cuvées, which regularly win awards in national and international competitions. Named Swiss Winery of the Year in 2008 and 2013, Provins continues to stand out from the crowd. These remarkable results, which reward all our ranges, demonstrate the quality of our oenological service and the commitment of our 1,200 grape suppliers. Through their rigorous work in the vineyard, they produce irreproachable grapes enabling us to produce exceptional wines. Among recent distinctions, the Merlot Titans 2020 won first place in its category at the Grand Prix du Vin Suisse 2024, while several other cuvées shone at the Expovina 2024 competition. 

Provins is also a winery that likes to share its passion. Throughout the year, it opens its doors and invites the public to discover the soul of wine and the richness of the Valais terroir. Among the highlights, Sunday brunches at Castel d'Uvrier offer a gourmet interlude overlooking the Rhone Valley. For lovers of intense flavours, an evening of wine and cigars, scheduled for June 11, promises a refined experience in an enchanting frame . Finally, the Tavolata valaisanne, on August 29 at Domaine de Tourbillon, invites you on a culinary journey to the heart of the traditions of the Old Country.

3 - La Cave des Bouquetins: heritage from the heights

Each wine has its own special spark, its own ideal flame, its own intelligence. Not only will you drink our wines, but you'll seek to understand them so that, clinking the glass in the circle of your friends, they can catch in your eye that special glint, that kind of sparkle that indicates that taste and spirit have just made contact.

Dr. Henry Wuilloud

When day breaks over Montorge, the ballet begins: that of the vines greeting the sun that nourishes their patient ripening. The same destiny, the same obstinacy in the face of harsh elements. In this Alpine setting, a singular place perpetuates the heritage of a passion: the Cave des Bouquetins. Created in 1991 by brothers Marc and Henry Wuilloud, this cellar carries the soul of the summits. Mountain guides before becoming winemakers, these men wanted to embody in their wines the quest for the absolute that drove them during their expeditions. But their vocation as winemakers did not come about by chance. Their blood bears the imprint of a visionary forefather, Doctor Henry Wuilloud, a legendary figure in twentieth-century Valais viticulture. The grape varieties that flourish in Valais today owe much to this man. Chardonnay, Syrah, Diolinoir - all treasures he planted on this terroir, enriching the palette of possibilities.

In 2008, a new generation took the helm. Isaline and Romain, Marc's children, brought their youth and dynamism to the family business. For ten years, this duo orchestrated the destiny of the estate: she, mastering the art of winemaking, produced wines from the Montorge hillside; he, overseeing the vineyard, which includes 13 grape varieties. Like his father before him, Romain combines his two passions in a unique creative drive. Mountain and vine intertwine in his daily life, forming a perfect symbiosis that he loves to share with his guests. The heliski-tasting experience he offers is a perfect example. It's a total sensory experience, a communion with the elements. Imagine soaring from the very roof of the winery amid a roar of propellers. You hurtle down the slopes under the expert guidance of a guide. Then you return to the cellar to end your adventure with a tasty aperitif.

Within the Bouquetins cellar, certain wines stand out. Let me share my selection with you. Ermitage Grand Cru envelops you with notes of gingerbread and orange zest, a subtle balance of sweetness and character. The Diolinoir carries you away in a whirlwind of fruity aromas as harmonious as a well-trained rope. As for Pinot Noir Follie, it reveals the wisdom of things that have patiently matured. On the palate, it's elegant and round.

On a mountainside, the Cave des Bouquetins invites you on a sensory ascent. Because here, as at altitude, there's no point in cheating - only the truth of the gesture and humility in the face of the elements can achieve grace.

In the heart of the Valais, these three winegrowing gems honor the grandeur of the Swiss Alps. From Flanthey to Montorge, the hillsides tell the story of a land shaped by the summits and sublimated by the hand of man. The ruggedness of the mountains and the delicacy of the grape varieties intertwine in every drop of wine. Between tradition and audacity, these wine cellars reveal Swiss excellence. And if you too are passionate about oenology and gastronomy, I invite you to discover my selection of gourmet restaurants in the Alps.

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